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Before starting
to make any garment, you must
make a tension sample in order
to measure stitch tension. You
should do this in order to check
your individual control of the
yarn against the pattern you are
following - so that the desired
measurements are the same as in
the pattern.
The stitch gauge.,
or tension, is always given at
the beginning of a pattern. It
is written as the number of stitches
and the number of rows in a particular
pattern, eg. stocking stitch,
to a specified size such as 5cm
using the yarn and needles called
for in the pattern. An example
is 22 sts and 30 rows to 5cm over
st st on no.5 needles.
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A variation in tension
within a garment will result in an uneven
appearance. By knitting the required
number of stitches and rows, your sample
will reveal whether the yarn and needles
you are using will make up into the
size and shape you require.
The ball band provides
important information regarding stitch
tension. The one shown bellow gives
metric and US crochet hook and needle
sizes and the ideal tension sample.
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Adjusting
the Stitch Gauge
If the number
of stitches given in the pattern
knit up too wide a measure, your
knitting is too lease and you
change your needles to a smaller
size. If they knit up too small
a measure, then your knitting
is too tight and you should change
your knitting needles to a larger
size.
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Changing needles on
size larger or one size smaller make
a difference of one stitch usually every
5cm. Changing your needle size will
normally be sufficient to adjust the
dimensions. Sometimes, however the width
will match but not the length. If there
are too many vertical rows to that called
for in the pattern, you must calculate
the length of the garment from your
tension sample and adjust the increasing
and decreasing rows accordingly. However
in certain patterns such as raglan or
set-in sleeves, the shaping is dependent
on a specific number of vertical rows.
If your vertical tension matches but
not your horizontal then in this case
it is better to lose some stitches across
the width.
Making a tension sample
Using the same yarn,
needles and stitch pattern called for
in the pattern, knit a sample slightly
larger than 5cm square. Smooth out the
finished sample on a flat surface larger
than 5cm square. Smooth out the finished
sample on a flat surface being careful
not to stretch it. Using pins, mark
out the tension measurement given in
the chosen pattern.
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Measuring the
number of stitches.
To determine
the width of the knitting, place
a steel ruler or tape measure
across the sample and count the
number of stitches between the
pins. Remember to include any
half stitches over the width of
the garment; a half stitch which
is left uncalculated may amount
to several inches in the final
width. |
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Measuring the
number of rows
To determine
the length of the knitting, place
a steel ruler or tape measure
vertically along the fabric and
count the number of rows to the
inch. |
Stitch
Gauge |
Casting
On |
Casting
Off |
Holding
the needle & yarn |
Basic Stitches
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Increasing
Stitches |
Decreasing
Stitches |
Cables
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Knitting
in the Round |
Working
with More Than One Yarn Colour
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Button
Holes |
Edges
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Seams
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Finishing
Techniques |
Abbreviations
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